Page 97 - ATHENS RIVIERA JOURNAL 2022

ATHENS RIVIERA JOURNAL
MOOD FOR FIESTA escape
Oaxaca is a place whose
A s i sit to write about
soul lives in the in-between
spaces. And whose beauty
reveals itself as you let your
eyes and heart adjust.

oaxaca, Mexico, I am
thinking about the things
that don’t change. The
things that are not fleet-
ing. To travel, we need
not go somewhere with
our body. We can go there
with our mindset, with
our senses, with words,
with a sound or song, and, of course, with an image.
We can go there with a smell, or a food, a story recount-
ed from a friend.
To me Oaxaca is all of these things. It is both a mind-
set and a place bursting with flavors, aromas, songs,
and stories to be discovered. It’s people, the generous
keepers of all these wonderful things they are so happy
to share with you.
It is a place you don’t want to read too much about
before you go. Oaxaca is not a place to experience by
moving from point a to point b, or restaurant to restau-
rant (although you could, and it may even be extraor-
dinary). It is a place whose soul lives in the in-between
spaces. And whose beauty reveals itself as you let your
eyes and heart adjust.
Set out on walks without purpose. Start higher up
on the hill and wander down toward the cathedral of
Santo Domingo (go inside) and Calle Alcalá (the main
pedestrian street). Take any side street. It is very likely
that you will run into a street procession in honor of a
patron saint, or a candela parade (a joyful Oaxacan pa-
rade that traditionally kicks-off weddings, graduations
and other community celebrations). If you are so lucky,
stay with it. Follow the song, the smell of incense, the
reverent voices, the cheers of the crowd. Celebration
is one of Oaxaca’s most powerful charms.
Make (daily) pilgrimages to its markets. The 20 de
Noviembre market sprawls with treasures, and the small,
organic and super cute La Cosecha market is a great
place try Oaxaca’s much loved and hearty cacao drink
called Tejate (recognized by the large vats of chocolaty
liquid that women are stirring). My favorite is getting
lost in the magical chaos of the Tlacalula market on
Sunday, a melting pot of people from the surrounding
pueblos. In the air, the fragrance of roasting corn, the
sweet-tangy-pepper of local chilis, ripe fruit waters,
and richly colored moles. The women of Tlacalula had
me spellbound, with their elegant waist-length braids,
tied in colorful ribbons, their woven baskets sometimes
balanced and carried on their heads, and their exquisite-
ly-embroidered dresses. …From the markets, fill your
room with fresh flowers, because you can.
Venture into the nearby pueblos. Oaxaca state has
seven each-entirely-different regions,16 indigenous
groups, and an uncountable number of master arti- FOLLOW THE SONG, THE SMELL OF INCENSE, THE REVERENT
sans. As a starting point, visit the masterful weavers >
VOICES, THE CHEERS OF THE CROWD. CELEBRATION IS ONE OF

OAXACA’S MOST POWERFUL CHARMS.