Page 61 - MYCONIAN COLLECTION MAG 2021
P. 61

discover|local people










 Vasiliki, Asimina and Vaso Bakogia  Lefteris

 THREE WOMEN ARE serving the tradition of Mykonos on a plate from morning till afternoon, and it’s no
 other than the three generations that are keeping alive the only authentic café of old on the island – Bakogia’s   Kantenassos
 kafeneio. Behind Gialos, where there once were many such establishments, Dimitris Bakogias – who had   LEFTERIS KANTENASSOS
 arrived in Mykonos to work in the island’s mines – took over the café that became known as Kavourotrypa   USED to play the bagpipes.
 (crab-hole) in 1978. No local would pass by and not wish him a good morning before going to Gialos to   Kantenassos-Bambeli, the most
 shop from the outdoor greengrocers and fishmongers. Mykonos locals would stop by all year round after   significant duo of Mykonian
 Sunday mass to relax, talk politics, and play backgammon. Dimitris Bakogias’ wife, Vasiliki, was always   traditional musicians,was famous
 standing by in the kitchen. She would make coffee and prepare meze to serve with ouzo – and they were   throughout the Aegean. Mykonos
 quite the meze. It was Vasiliki, Asimina’s mother and Vaso’s grandmother, who taught them this impressive,   has six hundred churches, and on
 simple craft. Fried eggs any way you like, mostra – the Mykonos version of Cretan dakos with tomatoes   the night before the feast, they
 and kopanisti cheese on rusks, local Mykonos sausage as well as fried meatballs, smelt, and calamari with   all celebrate the day of the saint
 potatoes. Any visitor finding themselves here from early in the morning can experience an authentic side of   after which the church is named.
 Mykonos’ daily life the way it used to be 40 years ago.   Large churches celebrate with a big
             “panayiri” (feast day celebration)
             and smaller churches hold a more
             modest celebration. The feasts are
             organised by the families who serve
             as the caretakers of the church.
             Relatives, friends and strangers
             are all equally welcome. Bread and
             wine are always on the table, as is
             mutton broth made from a sheep
             that is slaughtered especially for the
             occasion. And if it is a large feast,
             there will be all kinds of delicacies,
             such as meat balls, louza (dry cured
             ham) and onion pie, as well as
             sardines and fried salted cod with
             garlic mash. In the past, during hard
             times, the faithful used to entertain
             themselves with banter and by
             reciting playful couplets, and there
             were always bagpipes, drums and
             violins so the feast could come alive
             with dancing. Small feasts which are
             held outside of peak season combine
             two elements which even today
             afford visitors a rare glimpse of these
             customs dating back to antiquity.
             For example, the yearly custom of
             slaughtering pigs, which begins
             around the first chills towards the end
             of October, is a tradition honoured
             and prized by the locals. Despite
             the fact that the main event is the
             slaughtering of an animal - a ritual
             said to have Dionysian influences                                   RICH AT HEART
             – the custom is “cleansed” by the                       Lefteris Kantenassos plays the bagpipes at an improvised feast.
 THE OLD WORLD   sense of community, gastronomic
 Bakogia's kafeneio in Gialos is the only authentic coffee shop on Mykonos and one of the last of its kind in the Cyclades. Located in Gialos,   indulgence, music, singing and the
 with a view towards the small harbour and the sea, this traditional hang-out serves coffees and authentic island delicacies.
             dancing that surrounds it.





 060   MYCONIAN COLLECTION                                                                              MYCONIAN COLLECTION   061
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