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BLISS_Kalymnos island







 Pokinima                        You can take the sponge



                                               out of the sea...


 Preparing for the long journey, lasting 7-8 months,
 was a small rite of passage
 for the sponge divers. Let’s relive it...  ...It is way harder to take the sea out of the sponge.


 TEXT BY MARIA P. KANTANI                                 TEXT BY MARIA P. KANTANI

 W  hat happens when a whole is-  Those lucky enough to visit Kalymnos during   journey, is always served at the feast that fol-  N atural sponges (Euspongia) occur in   to the increased demand in industrialised Eu-  The job of spongers was not limited to diving

                                                                                         and fishing the sponges from the depths of the
                                                    rope. Yet it was Kalymnos, along with Symi, that
 lows the Pokinima events.
                     various regions around the world, es-
 early August also have the opportunity to wit-
 land prepares for the departure
 of those who venture out to catch
                     pecially where the sea waters are warm
 boat was prepared for the long journey, how
 tory still forms the very soul of Kalymnos Is-
 sponges on the coasts of Africa?   ness mostly realistic re-enactments of how a   Sponge diving with all its traditions and his-  and the currents mild. Classifying sponges by   gained worldwide fame as the home of sponge   sea. It included operating the mechanical equip-
                                                    divers and workers. The Greek term “sfouga-
                                                                                         ment to assist the divers, as well as handling
 The sailing preparation (called “Pokinima”) on   the supplies and general equipment of the   land. Another celebration, Sponge Week,   defining their composition was a riddle that   rades” directly translates as “spongers.” For the   their precious catch.
 Kalymnos lasted almost two months - Febru-  sponge divers were packed, and even how a div-  takes place one week after Easter each year. It   fascinated people since antiquity; Aristotle was   Kalymnians, sponge hunting became a source of   The processing of the sponge began immediate-
 ary to March - and set the whole island on fire.   er would don the profession’s traditional uni-  is dedicated to honouring the relationship be-  the first to suggest that this “strange creature” is   livelihood – a dangerous mission that only the   ly after it was fished out of the sea, meaning that
 The captains picked crew members; tools of the   form. If you attend, make sure you try the tradi-  tween the Kalymnians and the sponge, which   an animal. Indeed, sponges are the most simple,   skilled and daring could accomplish.  the first stages of the job were done on board.
 trade were feverishly gathered; and supplies   tional “kavourmas” (veal cooked in its fat to be   is also known as the “Kalymnian Gold”. Local   multicellular animal organisms. And yet, during   The long-standing tradition of sponging de-  What came first was the trampling and washing
 (“kubani”) were carefully prepared: galettes,   preserved and taken on board for the sailors to   musicians perform Aegean tunes, playing for   their 20-50-year life circle, they embellish the   fined the island’s identity and contributed sig-  of the sponges with seawater to remove most of
 “kavourmas” (sautèed meat), pulses, salted fish   eat). The well-known recipe, which the sponge   hours while people of all ages join tradition-  underwater landscape with an impressive vari-  nificantly to the economic prosperity of its in-  their membrane, contents (or “milk”), and any
 in sacks, and plenty of water in barrels.  workers took with them on their months-long   al dances. •  ety of colours and shapes.  habitants. Κalymnian traders sold their precious   trapped foreign bodies (sand, stones, microbes,
 Pokinima took place the day after the Resur-  In the geographical index of Greece, Kalym-  harvest, starting from Syros, Nafplio, and Con-  symbiotic crustaceans).  The sponges were then
 rection, and the journey, mainly to the coast of   Sponge diving   nos could be considered the absolute source of   stantinople and reaching Odessa, Petersburg,   left in the sun under a linen tarpaulin to rest be-
 Africa, lasted 7 to 8 months. Before departure,   was a lucrative   sponges. In the mid-19th century, all of the Do-  Moscow, Trieste, and the Middle East. The first   fore the aforementioned process was repeated.
 but dangerous
 all measures to ensure the favour of the spiri-  Kalymnos   decanese (as well as Hydra, Poros, Aegina, Sa-  references to the “sponger” profession appear   Next came the beating of the sponges, usual-
 tual world were taken. Holy water was as nec-  profession,   lamina, Ermioni, Trikeri, and Lemnos) pro-  in the epic poetry of Homer, followed by later   ly done with flat and smooth branches to avoid
 essary as any other supply, while the captain   honoured today   duced sponges by various methods, responding   Greek and Latin writers.   damaging the sea animal’s body, followed by
 through events
 and sponge divers had to invoke the grace of   like Prokinima                           a nighttime ritual. Only under the realm of
 St. Nicholas, the patron saint and guide of the   and Sponge                            darkness were the sponges, attached to ropes,
 divers.  Week.                                                        Kalymnian sponge   thrown into the sea so that the waves and cur-
 Today, Pokinima is a historical event. Organ-                       workers were experts   rents could wash away any remnants of “milk.”
                                                                           in harvesting,
 ised by the Municipality of Kalymnos, the Re-                       processing, and often   Recovered in the morning, they were ex-
 gion of South Aegean, and the Kalymnos Dis-                             classifying these   amined meticulously to determine if anoth-
                                                                        marine animals. A
 trict Council, it presents locals and visitors alike                tradition passed down   er round of processing was necessary. If so,
 with a series of re-enactments and theatrical                          through the ages.  the same steps were repeated again and again.
 performances drawn from the island’s history.                                           Once  the sponges were thoroughly cleaned,
 During the events, scenes and stories of depar-                                         they were given the green light and spread out
 ture are presented in collaboration with the is-                                        to dry in the sun. They literally sunbathed on a
 land’s theatrical groups. Pokinima contains de                                          beach or the ship’s rigging.
 facto elements of tragedy. Back then, the fare-                                         Often, depending on the knowledge of the crew
 well that took place was particularly difficult,                                        and the time available, a rough classification was
 since many of the sponge divers were high-  Bronze statue formation at the base of Nike statue in Pothia town, Kalymnos Ιsland.   carried out on board. Upon returning ashore,
 ly unlikely to return, due to the conditions in                                         the batch was presented to traders. The latter
 which they worked, while others, in many cas-                                           took the sponges to their warehouses, which
 es, would return with serious health problems,                                          were the laboratories for further processing.
 usually paralysed. When the sponge boats re-                                            TIP: You can learn more about the long tra-
 turned, the Kalymnians counted their loss-                                              dition of seafaring and sponge diving by vis-
 es. There were indeed many victims, most of                                             iting the Maritime Museum of Kalymnos, as
 whom were buried on deserted coasts or is-  SHUTTERSTOCK                                well as the Sponge - both located in the city of
 lands in Africa.                                                                        Pothia. •



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