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BLISS_Kalymnos island







                                                        Pokinima                                                                                                         You can take the sponge



                                                                                                                                                                                       out of the sea...


                                       Preparing for the long journey, lasting 7-8 months,
                                                     was a small rite of passage
                                               for the sponge divers. Let’s relive it...                                                                                      ...It is way harder to take the sea out of the sponge.


                                                          TEXT BY MARIA P. KANTANI                                                                                                                TEXT BY MARIA P. KANTANI

              W         hat happens when a whole is-  Those lucky enough to visit Kalymnos during   journey, is always served at the feast that fol-  N      atural sponges (Euspongia) occur in   to the increased demand in industrialised Eu-  The job of spongers was not limited to diving

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 and fishing the sponges from the depths of the
                                                                                         lows the Pokinima events.
                                                                                                                                                             various regions around the world, es-
                                                                                                                                                                                            rope. Yet it was Kalymnos, along with Symi, that
                                                    early August also have the opportunity to wit-
                        land prepares for the departure
                                                                                                                                                             pecially where the sea waters are warm
                        of those who venture out to catch
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 ment to assist the divers, as well as handling
                                                                                         tory still forms the very soul of Kalymnos Is-
                                                                                                                                                                                            divers and workers. The Greek term “sfouga-
              sponges on the coasts of Africa?      ness mostly realistic re-enactments of how a   Sponge diving with all its traditions and his-     and the currents mild. Classifying sponges by   gained worldwide fame as the home of sponge   sea. It included operating the mechanical equip-
                                                    boat was prepared for the long journey, how
              The sailing preparation (called “Pokinima”) on   the supplies and general equipment of the   land. Another celebration, Sponge Week,    defining their composition was a riddle that   rades” directly translates as “spongers.” For the   their precious catch.
              Kalymnos lasted almost two months - Febru-  sponge divers were packed, and even how a div-  takes place one week after Easter each year. It   fascinated people since antiquity; Aristotle was   Kalymnians, sponge hunting became a source of   The processing of the sponge began immediate-
              ary to March - and set the whole island on fire.   er would don the profession’s traditional uni-  is dedicated to honouring the relationship be-  the first to suggest that this “strange creature” is   livelihood – a dangerous mission that only the   ly after it was fished out of the sea, meaning that
              The captains picked crew members; tools of the   form. If you attend, make sure you try the tradi-  tween the Kalymnians and the sponge, which   an animal. Indeed, sponges are the most simple,   skilled and daring could accomplish.  the first stages of the job were done on board.
              trade were feverishly gathered; and supplies   tional “kavourmas” (veal cooked in its fat to be   is also known as the “Kalymnian Gold”. Local   multicellular animal organisms. And yet, during   The long-standing tradition of sponging de-  What came first was the trampling and washing
              (“kubani”) were carefully prepared: galettes,   preserved and taken on board for the sailors to   musicians perform Aegean tunes, playing for   their 20-50-year life circle, they embellish the   fined the island’s identity and contributed sig-  of the sponges with seawater to remove most of
              “kavourmas” (sautèed meat), pulses, salted fish   eat). The well-known recipe, which the sponge   hours while people of all ages join tradition-  underwater landscape with an impressive vari-  nificantly to the economic prosperity of its in-  their membrane, contents (or “milk”), and any
              in sacks, and plenty of water in barrels.  workers took with them on their months-long   al dances. •                                   ety of colours and shapes.            habitants. Κalymnian traders sold their precious   trapped foreign bodies (sand, stones, microbes,
              Pokinima took place the day after the Resur-                                                                                            In the geographical index of Greece, Kalym-  harvest, starting from Syros, Nafplio, and Con-  symbiotic crustaceans).  The sponges were then
              rection, and the journey, mainly to the coast of                                                  Sponge diving                         nos could be considered the absolute source of   stantinople and reaching Odessa, Petersburg,   left in the sun under a linen tarpaulin to rest be-
              Africa, lasted 7 to 8 months. Before departure,                                                   was a lucrative                       sponges. In the mid-19th century, all of the Do-  Moscow, Trieste, and the Middle East. The first   fore the aforementioned process was repeated.
                                                                                                                but dangerous
              all measures to ensure the favour of the spiri-                                                   Kalymnos                              decanese (as well as Hydra, Poros, Aegina, Sa-  references to the “sponger” profession appear   Next came the beating of the sponges, usual-
              tual world were taken. Holy water was as nec-                                                     profession,                           lamina, Ermioni, Trikeri, and Lemnos) pro-  in the epic poetry of Homer, followed by later   ly done with flat and smooth branches to avoid
              essary as any other supply, while the captain                                                     honoured today                        duced sponges by various methods, responding   Greek and Latin writers.    damaging the sea animal’s body, followed by
                                                                                                                through events
              and sponge divers had to invoke the grace of                                                      like Prokinima                                                                                                   a nighttime ritual. Only under the realm of
              St. Nicholas, the patron saint and guide of the                                                   and Sponge                                                                                                       darkness were the sponges, attached to ropes,
              divers.                                                                                           Week.                                                                                          Kalymnian sponge   thrown into the sea so that the waves and cur-
              Today, Pokinima is a historical event. Organ-                                                                                                                                                  workers were experts   rents could wash away any remnants of “milk.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   in harvesting,
              ised by the Municipality of Kalymnos, the Re-                                                                                                                                                  processing, and often   Recovered in the morning, they were ex-
              gion of South Aegean, and the Kalymnos Dis-                                                                                                                                                        classifying these   amined meticulously to determine if anoth-
                                                                                                                                                                                                                marine animals. A
              trict Council, it presents locals and visitors alike                                                                                                                                           tradition passed down   er round of processing was necessary. If so,
              with a series of re-enactments and theatrical                                                                                                                                                     through the ages.  the same steps were repeated again and again.
              performances drawn from the island’s history.                                                                                                                                                                      Once  the sponges were thoroughly cleaned,
              During the events, scenes and stories of depar-                                                                                                                                                                    they were given the green light and spread out
              ture are presented in collaboration with the is-                                                                                                                                                                   to dry in the sun. They literally sunbathed on a
              land’s theatrical groups. Pokinima contains de                                                                                                                                                                     beach or the ship’s rigging.
              facto elements of tragedy. Back then, the fare-                                                                                                                                                                    Often, depending on the knowledge of the crew
              well that took place was particularly difficult,                                                                                                                                                                   and the time available, a rough classification was
              since many of the sponge divers were high-                                                                           Bronze statue formation at the base of Nike statue in Pothia town, Kalymnos Ιsland.           carried out on board. Upon returning ashore,
              ly unlikely to return, due to the conditions in                                                                                                                                                                    the batch was presented to traders. The latter
              which they worked, while others, in many cas-                                                                                                                                                                      took the sponges to their warehouses, which
              es, would return with serious health problems,                                                                                                                                                                     were the laboratories for further processing.
              usually paralysed. When the sponge boats re-                                                                                                                                                                       TIP: You can learn more about the long tra-
              turned, the Kalymnians counted their loss-                                                                                                                                                                         dition of seafaring and sponge diving by vis-
              es. There were indeed many victims, most of                                                                                                                                                                        iting the Maritime Museum of Kalymnos, as
              whom were buried on deserted coasts or is-                                                                                      SHUTTERSTOCK                                                                       well as the Sponge - both located in the city of
              lands in Africa.                                                                                                                                                                                                   Pothia. •



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